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新豆 vs 老豆

by on 12/07/2012

都市日報專欄 | 咖啡‧字典 | By 談齊好 2011-11-25

飲紅酒,年份愈老愈好。咖啡則相反,老豆不值錢。

今年採收的稱為新豆,上一年度產的叫做舊豆,一般超過三年的老豆,都不值錢。剛脫殼的新豆,顏色深綠有光澤。老豆則明顯乾癟,顏色偏黃。未烘焙燒的咖啡生豆應該在採收後一年內用完,因為豆內的水分會隨時間流失,香氣和味道亦會隨之改變,酸度降低,質感變厚,某些缺陷會變得不那麼明顯。一般精品級數的貴價豆,一年內賣不完,下年便會降價。

當然也有例外,我在澳洲就去過一間餐廳,標榜賣「Aged Beans」,呷了一杯espresso,口感出奇地厚實,味道濃郁。聽說日本人喜歡用倉庫中靜置了數年的豆子,因為含水量低,較容易烘焙,味道較穩定云云。說到底,好味與否是很主觀的,有人愛清淡帶花香味的咖啡,有人卻偏好老豆,覺得厚實濃苦的才像咖啡。而我剛在最愛在咖啡產區,即摘樹上熟的果子,即喝今年產的新豆,不為味道,純為情意。

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